How to Evaluate A Chicken Breeder (Without Overwhelming Them)

Bringing home new chickens is exciting, but one question matters more than anything else: is your new flock healthy? Learn how to evaluate a breeder, what questions to ask, and how to protect your birds with smart biosecurity.

Krystal
Chicks in a brooder box.

Bringing home new chickens is exciting but before you fall in love with a handful of fluffy butts, there’s one thing that matters more than anything else: biosecurity.

In Nova Scotia, most backyard chicken flocks (and even breeder flocks) aren’t closed, birds move between properties frequently, and things like vaccines just aren’t part of the picture. All of these factors increase the risk of illness in a flock.

This post isn’t about hunting down the perfect breeder – let’s be honest, none of us are perfect. It’s about asking the right questions, reading between the lines, and keeping your flock safe. I’m not here to scare you silly; I just want you to know the risks so you can handle them with confidence.

Here are a few questions to ask and things to think about when you’re considering a new chicken breeder.

Your goal here isn’t to grill the poor breeder or take up a ton of their time (they’re busy!), it’s to gather enough information to make an informed decision before you purchase.

1. Has your flock had any illness recently?

Let’s start with the big one. This one question alone can save you a lot of trouble so, if you only ask one thing, make it this.

A responsible breeder will not sell birds if their flock is sick but, just in case the one you happen to be dealing with isn’t as careful, you should still ask. Introducing new birds to your existing flock is one of the riskiest moments in chicken keeping, after all.

Pay particular attention to illnesses that involve respiratory or neurological symptoms, as the illnesses in these categories tend to hang around (sometimes indefinitely) and can be extremely contagious.

Common respiratory illnesses to watch out for include Mycoplasma, Coryza, Infectious Bronchitis, and Infectious Larygotracheitis (ILT). Be cautious of anything labelled as a “chicken cold” as well because, most of the time, that “cold” is actually one of the above. Mycoplasma is actually the most common cause of respiratory illness in chickens.

Common neurological illnesses to watch out for include Marek’s Disease, and Lymphoid Leukosis which is caused by the Avian Leukosis Virus (ALV). Diseases like Marek’s Disease are considered to be ubiquitous (in most, if not all, backyard flocks) but that doesn’t mean you want to knowingly bring home birds that are showing visible symptoms.

This question should be asked also when purchasing hatching eggs. Most diseases don’t pass through the eggs but there are a few diseases, like Lymphoid Leukosis (a viral disease similar to Marek’s) and Mycoplasma (a chronic bacterial respiratory disease), that are transmitted vertically from the parents to the chick through the eggs. That means a chick can potentially hatch already carrying disease and, even if those chicks hatch on your property, they can still bring illness with them.

2. Do you regularly add new birds to your flock?

Since most flocks here aren’t closed, this helps you understand exposure risk.

Frequent additions = higher chance of something being introduced.
Occasional additions = lower overall risk.

Everyone manages their flocks differently, so this isn’t about one answer being “good” or “bad” – it’s just about knowing what you’re working with.

Breeders do need to bring in new birds or hatch eggs from other farms on a fairly regular basis to keep genetics diverse and grow their breeding pool. It is not irresponsible to do this, it’s a good thing. A breeder who cares about biosecurity will quarantine those new birds appropriately and that will greatly minimize the risk of introducing new chickens.

What you want to watch for here isn’t a breeder bringing in a new rooster or hatching a small batch of eggs to diversify genetics, it’s breeders who are frequently bringing in large numbers of birds from multiple sources.

Bringing in large numbers of birds can be done safely with appropriate quarantining, but the more birds that move through a property, the higher the risk that one of them brings something unwanted along.

If you want to minimize the number of questions you’re asking, you can often get a sense of this by checking their social media accounts and/or website first. Take a look there, then ask if you can’t determine the answer.

3. Can I see pictures or videos of the parent birds?

Again, this is one you can likely answer yourself with a bit of digging. Most breeders post plenty of photos and videos. Do your own investigating first, if possible, and then ask if you can’t form a clear picture or if you have concerns.

I suggest asking for photos or videos rather than requesting a visit, as it’s pretty unlikely that a breeder will allow you onto their property to see their birds.

This isn’t rudeness or a lack of transparency – it’s biosecurity. Allowing visitors around their birds carries risk. If a breeder says they don’t accept visitors, respect that and don’t think badly of them – they’re putting their birds’ safety first, which is a good thing.

If you can’t visit in person, pictures and videos are your next best option.

In those pictures look for:
• Clear, bright eyes.
• Clean nostrils.
• No facial swelling.
• Good color in the comb and wattles. Be aware that younger birds who are pre-lay will often be more pale in the comb and wattles, this is normal.
• Good feather condition.
• Smooth scales on the legs and feet without signs of swelling.

Birds that are hunched, have their head pulled in close to their body or tucked under their wing during the day, or are standing upright like a penguin are often not feeling well.

If you are able to see videos, additionally look and listen for: 
• Smooth, quiet breathing with closed beaks (no open-mouth breathing).
• Any sneezing, coughing or weird breathing noises.
• Alert, active behavior.
• Limping or birds having difficulty moving around.

In addition to the birds themselves, look at their environment. Do they have enough space? Is it reasonably clean?

Be realistic here, these are farm animals that poop – a lot. Even a well-maintained coop won’t be perfectly clean all the time. You can’t smell through a camera (which is both good and bad), but if you do happen to be there in person, use your nose. A strong ammonia smell is a red flag.

When you go to pick up your new birds, take a minute to look them over before you leave the breeder’s property. Check for the same things you’ve already looked for in the pictures or videos. If something seems off, remember: you are absolutely within your rights to change your mind and walk away – even if you’ve driven two hours just to get there.

That said, keep in mind that the birds may be a bit stressed from being caught, handled, and moved. They may act slightly differently because of that, but they still should not show obvious signs of illness.

4. Have your birds ever been treated for parasites?

If the birds you are interested in are adults, ask about parasite treatments and whether the flock has ever been treated for worms, lice, or mites.

This isn’t a pass/fail question, and it’s completely okay if the answer is no. Breeders generally treat only when needed. If they’ve never had lice or mites, for example, then they won’t have treated for them – and that’s perfectly fine and expected.

The reason to ask is so you can decide how you want to handle your own quarantine process. You may choose to treat preventatively while the birds are in quarantine, just in case, to avoid introducing parasites from another property to your flock.

Pay Attention to The Answers You Get

These questions aren’t about grilling someone (and you probably shouldn’t do that unless you want them to stop replying and not sell to you). They’re about gathering information, starting a conversation, getting a feel for how the breeder communicates, and picking up on anything that feels off.

Because how someone answers often tells you as much, if not more, than the answer itself.

Keep in mind that breeders are busy people and have limited time to answer lots of questions. They probably don’t have time to write essay length replies. Being informed is important, just don’t go overboard or they’re likely to move on to the next person in their inbox.

Good signs:
• Open, honest answers.
• Willingness to explain when you don’t understand.

Red flags:
• Dodging your questions.
• Vague or defensive answers.
• Rushing you to buy.

If It Seems Too Good To Be True, It Just Might Be

Extremely cheap birds are often cheap for a reason and, unfortunately, that reason isn’t always one you want to bring home. Chickens cost money to raise – feed, housing, time, and basic care all add up quickly – so when prices seem unusually low, it’s worth asking yourself where corners might have been cut along the way.

That said, not every low price is a red flag. Some people sell birds for less simply because they enjoy raising them and aren’t focused on turning a profit. A good deal isn’t automatically a bad thing – but it should still prompt a closer look. Reputable breeders typically charge a bit more because they’re putting real care into raising healthy, well-started birds, not just producing them.

While everyone loves a good deal, this is one place where it pays to pause before jumping on the cheapest option. Saving a few dollars upfront can quickly turn into bigger problems than you bargained for. A fair price usually reflects the care behind the birds – and that’s something worth paying for.

You Bought the Chickens… Now What?

No matter how great a breeder seems, no matter how well you know them, or how much you trust them, always quarantine new birds. It doesn’t matter if you got them from the feed store, a breeder, your best friend, or the trunk of someone’s car in a shady alleyway – quarantine those birds!

Even the best, most honest breeder can unknowingly sell a bird that isn’t well. Chickens are prey animals and hide illness extremely well, so neither you nor the breeder may realize anything is wrong. Many diseases can also lie dormant and only show symptoms when a bird is stressed.

And moving to a new home? That’s super stressful and can trigger disease flare-ups.

Have a plan for properly quarantining your new birds before you even leave to pick them up. Aim for a minimum of 14 days, and ideally 30, as far away from your existing flock as possible.

Yes, I know, proper quarantine is a huge pain in the butt. I’ve been there, done that, and I get it. But once those new chickens are home, it’s on you to integrate them safely. Remember, the responsibility isn’t just the breeder’s – it’s yours too.

Think of quarantine as your first line of defense, it’s insurance for your whole flock. By giving new chickens time to settle in, monitoring their health, and handling any issues early, you drastically reduce the risk of introducing disease. Quarantine isn’t just a step in the process, it’s peace of mind for you and safety for everyone in your coop.

Ready to start your flock with confidence?

Our Nova Scotia Chicken Breeder Directory lists breeders in Nova Scotia to help you get started. Pair it with the vetting tips in this post to make sure your new birds arrive healthy and happy.

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