If you’ve been thinking about getting chickens here in Nova Scotia, you’re not alone – and you’re definitely not the only one wondering where to even start. Between figuring out what you need, where to get birds, and how to keep them alive and happy through our winters, it can feel like a lot. The good news? It doesn’t have to be complicated. This short guide will walk you through the basics so you can get started with confidence.
1. Make Sure You Can Keep Chickens Where You Live
Before you fall in love with a flock, check:
• Your local bylaws.
• Whether there are any neighborhood restrictions.
• How many birds you’re allowed to keep on your property.
• If roosters are allowed.
From county to county – and even town to town – the rules in Nova Scotia can vary quite a bit. The rules in Kentville are different from where I live in McGee Lake, even though both are in Kings County and only about 15 minutes apart.
In my area of Kings County, zoning allows for one “animal unit” per full acre of land. Twenty chickens are considered one animal unit so, if I owned 4.25 acres, I’d be allowed 80 chickens (20 chickens per full acre x 4 full acres). The rules are very likely different where you live but you can easily call the municipality and ask.
2. Decide What Kind of Chickens You Want
Think about:
• Egg production: How many eggs per week do you need?
• Egg colors: Do you want a rainbow egg basket or would you prefer all brown eggs?
• Temperament: Do you want to make pets of your chickens or would you prefer they do their own thing?
• Cold hardiness: Cold-hardy breeds tend to do best in our climate.
Production breeds (like those you can get from the local feed stores) will lay more eggs than heritage breeds (the ones you’ll likely get from a farm or breeder). They will often lay 6-7 eggs per week in their prime vs 3-5 eggs per week, depending on the breed, for heritage breeds. Most backyard chicken breeds will lay brown eggs but you can also find some (quite easily) that will lay shades of blue and green or super dark brown. White egg layers are generally the hardest to find anywhere outside of the feed stores.
While most chickens can be made pets with enough love, attention and treats, temperament varies between breeds and also individual birds. Some breeds of birds, the Leghorn for example, tend to be flighty and less friendly. Buff Orpingtons, on the other hand, are often described as the “Golden Retrievers” of chickens. They’re known for being friendly and gentle.
Heavy birds with smaller combs tend to fare better in our winters than lighter birds or birds with larger combs. This reverses in the summer months as the smaller birds tend to tolerate heat better.
3. Set Up a Safe, Comfortable Coop
You’ll need:
• Secure fencing covering all coop openings that don’t have a door (like the eaves and vents) to keep predators out. I use ½” hardware cloth.
• Proper ventilation up high on the walls near the ceiling to provide fresh air without drafts.
• Clean bedding: Pine shavings, straw, or hemp.
• Enough space per bird in the coop and the run.
• 12 inches of roost per bird for standard sized chickens. Your roosts should be flat and roughly 4 inches wide for most chickens. A standard 2×4 with the 4 inch side up works perfectly.
More space means happier chickens and, in general, you should build the biggest coop you can manage. More space is almost always better. The minimum space requirements for standard sized chickens is 4 square feet of open floor space per chicken inside the coop and 10 square feet per chicken in the run. It’s really important to try to at least provide these minimums as overcrowding leads to stress, feather picking, and grumpy chickens.
For my own coops, I count the rooster as two chickens and provide a minimum of 8 square feet of space for him in the coop and 20 square feet in the run. It’s not that the rooster is so much larger than the hens, but having a rooster in the flock changes the dynamic and I find that more space is needed for everyone.
For example, most of my coops are 4 feet by 8 feet – 32 square feet. Ideally I (personally) would have no more than 1 rooster and 6 hens OR 8 hens in that size coop.
4. Feed and Daily Care
Basics include:
• Quality feed
• Fresh, clean water
• Grit + calcium
• Collecting eggs
• Cleaning the coop
• Health checks
Chickens do best when their daily needs are met in simple, repeatable ways. Everyday care includes feeding, refreshing water, collecting eggs, quick health checks, and keeping their space reasonably clean. These tasks don’t take long, but they do need to happen consistently. Chickens are pretty low-maintenance – but not no-maintenance.
5. Find Reputable Local Breeders
Finding a good local breeder can make a huge difference, especially when you’re just starting out. You’re not just buying chickens, you’re (hopefully) buying healthy birds from someone who knows what they’re doing and cares for their flock. Nova Scotia has some great breeders, but there are also plenty of scammers out there, so it pays to be cautious.
If you want a starting point, I’ve put together a list of local farms and breeders to help you find the real ones.
6. Learn Before You Leap
This is where a lot of people struggle – trying to piece everything together from random sources, second-guessing what’s right, and learning the hard way as they go. Taking the time to learn before jumping in doesn’t just make things easier on you, it sets your chickens up for a healthier, happier start right from day one.
If you want to feel confident before bringing birds home, my beginner workshop, Feathered Fundamentals, walks you through everything step-by-step in a practical, beginner-friendly way.
Starting your first flock doesn’t have to be overwhelming. With the right setup and a bit of guidance, you’ll be collecting eggs before you know it and wondering why you didn’t start sooner.
